How to spot a fake
The A on the front should have 2 WELL DEFINED circles, one on each side of it. If the circles are not crisp and have some depth to them, it is fake.
The rear of the connector should say Anderson on one side, and Power on the adjoining side
Looking at the bottom of the connector, you should see an injection molding artifact (small blemish) in the MIDDLE of the connecting portion.
The color of the red connector will not be a traditional “fire engine” red, but a slightly darker red
Lastly, consider the price and the source. If it is someone like HRO, DX Engineering, Gigaparts, R&L Electronics, etc.… you can pretty much guarantee it is real.
If the price is too low, it’s probably fake. The average around $1.65 or higher per complete set (red and black housing and a contact for each) from Amazon, or individual components from Newark.com.
Where to buy and order numbers
Red – The part number is 1327FP for a retail packaged single housing, or 1327FP-BK for bulk packaged.
Black – The part number is 12327G6 for retail packaged single housing, or 1327G6FP-BK for bulk packaged.
The cheapest I have found the bulk packaged housings are $0.63 each (1 single housing of 1 color) for quantities below 25, and $0.50 each when ordering 25 or more.
The deal on Amazon for 12 sets, including contacts is the best deal I have seen anywhere. It does not come with boots, or roll pins, but it does come with 12 complete sets of Red/Black and 2 silver plated contacts for 30A 12-16 AWG.
The roll pin size you need to secure these to one another, so they don’t slide apart is a 3/32” wide by 1/4” long roll pin. These can be easily found on Amazon for around $6 for a quantity of 45. Whatever you do, don’t buy roll pins from Harbor Freight.