Over the years we have tried and tested many products to see what works the best and gives us the most return for our investment. Overall, we have found the supplies available from Bass Equipment to be some of the best on the market. Below I will list out the products we use, and any pros/cons for each. We will also be posting a YouTube video showing the FULL assembly process for their rabbit cages.
Rabbit Cages and Enclosures
Cages/Enclosures
The cages I use and recommend are the Bass Equipment 18″ Galvanized Wire Cages. I normally order the 36″ x 24″ x 18″ cages with the door in 36″ side. This size and layout works best for my needs. The door in the 36″ side gives me enough room across the front of the cage to mount the feeding tray. I also always upgrade to the swing out door since it is easier to open and leave open when transferring the rabbits to another cage. The advantage of the standard door that opens inward is that it will close on its own and not allow them to get out. I also upgrade to the 14GA heavy floor which will last longer, be easier on the rabbits feet, and isn’t flimsy on longer spans that would require support rods to make them rigid. I highly recommend that you always upgrade to the Galvanized after upgrade option which means the wire is galvanized (treated to prevent rust) after it is welded, so the galvanization doesn’t get burned off in the areas where the wire is welded. This will help protect the cages from rusting.
Feel free to pick whatever size you think would fit your use case and needs the best. The 36″ wide x 24″ deep x 18″ high cages I get are roomy for just one rabbit, which is nice. However, I will probably order a 24″ x 24″x 18″ if I order another cage since I really only need the 36″ for the females who are about to deliver. The smaller cages would be fine for 1 adult, or for when I am separating the kits into their sexes.
I have some cages with the baby-saver wire, which has much smaller openings across the bottom of the wire to keep babies from being able to squeeze out and get hurt or killed. You can also use some inside urine guards in place of the kit saver wire since it completely blocks the same amount of wire at the bottom, which will also help protect you from getting peed on, but it is cheaper to get the baby-saver wire if you are not worried about the pee.
Feeding
I use the Bass Fine-x Feeders. I have tried other brands, but these are the best made, and have the best design of any I have tried. I love the fact that it has wire mesh at the bottom to allow any water or fine crumbs of feed to escape. It helps keep the feed from packing up or becoming jammed. If you order these, be sure to order the lids which are sold separately. I also recommend using a piece of wire to create a hinge pin for the lids instead of the flimsy bent metal ones they come with. It will pay off in grief in the long run.
Watering Systems
For multiple rabbits, I can highly recommend the Borak water system. I personally use these for my rabbit cages. I don’t like their tubing clips however, because I don’t feel like they are very stable. If the clips slip sometimes the rabbits can get to the tubing and eat it, which will let all your water drain out. I have moved to using wire staples and attaching the tubing to a board behind the cage where the rabbits can’t reach it.
Miscellaneous hardware
I hang my cages using a combination of attaching the back to the structure of my shelter, and chain link to suspend the front. Below is a list of some of the hardware I have found useful for this.
National Hardware 1/4 X 7-1/2 Aluminum/Steel Hook and Eye Turnbuckle
#3 x 15 ft. Zinc Plated Steel Double Loop Chain
#8 5/8-in x 1-3/4-in Stainless Coarse Thread Eye Bolt
1/4 in. x 1-1/4 in. Stainless Fender Washer
#8 x 1-5/8 in. #2 Phillips Head Coated Exterior Wood Screws